AC Leaking Water
Water around the indoor unit or a stain spreading across the ceiling makes the first decision for you: turn the system off at the thermostat. Every minute it keeps running it makes more water, and that water is what ruins drywall, flooring, and the electrical parts inside the air handler. Shut it down, contain the drip, then figure out where it's coming from.
Once it's off, find the source in order. Check the condensate drain pan under the indoor unit - if it's full or overflowing, the drain line is clogged, which is the leading cause by a wide margin. Locate where the drain line exits outside, usually a white PVC pipe near the condenser, and see whether water trickles out; no flow there confirms a blockage. Look for a second, higher drain line dripping outside - that's a deliberate warning that the primary line has backed up. Finally, check the copper lines and coil for ice; if they're frosted, the "leak" is really a frozen coil melting, and the true problem is airflow or refrigerant.
A clogged condensate drain line is the cause we find most often, and it isn't close - algae and sludge choke the pipe until water spills out of the pan. Second is a failed or unplugged condensate pump on systems that have to lift water up and out. Third is a cracked or rusted-through drain pan that leaks even when the line is clear. Fourth is a frozen evaporator coil thawing and overwhelming the pan, which traces back to a dirty filter, weak airflow, or low charge. Occasionally the whole story is sloppy installation - a pan pitched the wrong way or a line that was never glued.
Nowhere does condensate volume matter more than here. Central Florida's humidity means your evaporator coil is wringing water out of the air almost every hour the system runs, which it does nearly year-round - so that one drain line handles far more water than the same system would up north, and it clogs with algae far faster in the warmth. Seasonal and rental homes compound it: a drain that clogs while the house sits empty can overflow for days, soaking into ceilings and floors before anyone opens the door.
What we do on arrival
- Confirm the system is off and locate the active source of the water
- Clear and flush the condensate drain line, then verify strong flow
- Inspect the drain pan for rust, cracks, and correct slope
- Test the condensate pump and its float switch where the system uses one
- Check the coil, filter, and airflow for freezing that overwhelms the pan
- Treat the line to slow algae regrowth and confirm the primary drain is clear
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Frequently asked questions
Is it okay to run the AC until you arrive, or should I shut it off?
Shut it off at the thermostat. A leaking system keeps making water that spreads into your walls and floor and can reach the electrical components inside the air handler. Turn it off, put down towels or a bucket, and leave it off until the drain is cleared - a few hours without cooling beats water damage.
Can I clear the clogged drain line myself?
Sometimes. Attaching a wet/dry vacuum to the outdoor end of the drain line and pulling for a minute can clear a light clog, and plenty of homeowners get lucky that way. If flow doesn't return, the pan keeps refilling, or you can't find the line, the blockage is deeper - we flush the whole line and check why it clogged.
The water stopped on its own - is the problem gone?
Probably not. If a frozen coil thawed or the pan happened to drain, the underlying clog or airflow issue is still there and it will back up again, often worse. A leak that seems to fix itself is a leak waiting to return, so it's worth clearing the line and finding the cause before you run it again.
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